North Berwick West Links evolved from a small stretch of common ground in this small coastal town in East Lothian, and grew significantly throughout the 19th century. Since then, the routing has remained largely unchanged.
Golf began all the way back in 1611 at North Berwick when a rudimentary version of the game was played across a small stretch of common land, and from there – The links expanded westward, taking advantage of ground from local landowners who could not find suitable use for the links land we now enjoy. That gradual encroachment allowed the course to extend to 18 holes. Contributors over time include Tom Dunn, Davie Strath and local club maker Ben Sayers.
Whilst the course is undeniably quirky, it’s also a very honest test for today’s golfer. Undulations provide endless variety and fun, and the views out across the Firth of Forth out to the Island of Fidra, Craigleith and Bass Rock are a delight. The best stretch though, without question, comes when you arrive at the 12th tee. It’s quite possibly the most engaging run of golf holes in the game. The major highlights:
13th hole, aptly named ‘Pit’ requires a long and straight drive to allow you to safely navigate the ancient wall, behind which the small green lies sunken beneath the sand dunes.
14th hole, ‘Perfection’, where you play out towards Bass Rock to a tight hogback fairway, before taking the leap of faith beyond the dunes to the blind green beneath. Local folklore says that the name Perfection, is reflective of the two shots you will require to find the putting surface in the regulation two shots.
15th hole, ‘Redan’, is an iconic golf hole. Lauded by todays students of the game as a one of the greatest par 3’s in existence, and certainly the most replicated. This is also one of the most famous template golf holes in existence, something CB Macdonald took back to the United States in the early 1900’s and used frequently in his designs with Seth Raynor.
16th hole, ‘Gate’, where you play out across the March Dyke from the tee, before trying to find one of the most outrageous greens in the game. Two small plateau’s are separated by a 5 foot swale the runs diagonally between. Whilst this would certainly be considered to be central to another template golf hole (The ‘Biarritz’), the original is from the course in the south coast of France where Tom Dunn laid out the course. Tom Dunn however spent time at North Berwick working on the links before he sought a warmer climate and developed his trade in France – and as such many believe this to be the original.
Much like Carnoustie which builds to a crescendo on the closing holes, 17 offers another reachable par 5, up over an enormous trench bunker to a punchbowl green, and similar to St Andrews, the 18th is a short par 4 where you play your way back into town with the clubhouse in sight and the car park unnervingly within range. It’s a truly wonderful closing stretch of holes!
North Berwick is a site of worship for today’s GCA community, and it’s easy to get wrapped up in the hyperbole when you visit. It’s a unique and special place. The vibe is not stuffy, it’s a community links, enjoyed by all, and whilst the visiting green fee is now every high (owing to global notoriety), the members who are fortunate to belong to one of the clubs in the town can enjoy unfettered access to this wild golfing playground all year round.
